Saveitforparts

I recently sold the rustmobile! The fellow wanted to know surprisingly little about it, the entire transaction reminded me of a certain meme. Hopefully it treats him well and all the little annoyances aren’t too annoying!

By request, here’s a link to the Craigslist ad, the ad is pasted below for when it ends/expires!

Awful car for your awful driver! (Beater 1994 Honda Accord) – $500 (St Paul)

 

Is your kid pestering you to buy them a car? Do you or a friend run into things a lot and need a car that can take a beating? Get this one! It’s cheap, runs pretty well, won’t be a great financial loss if you crash it, and will teach you or your child valuable repair and maintenance skills (like how to use duct tape). Plus, it looks so bad that your kids won’t want to be seen in public with it, and will spend more time doing homework and duct taping parts back on instead of cruising around!

The quick overview:
-1994 Honda Accord LX
-2.2L 4-cylinder
-Automatic transmission
-???,??? Miles (Odometer stopped working 3 years ago at 215,000, so who knows).
-Have owned for ~5 years
-“Mostly” blue (“Sage Green” according to the colorblind guys at Honda). Hood is black-ish and there’s some rust and bondo highlights.
-Lots of “personality” / minor problems (will attempt to list them all below)

The GOOD:
-Engine works, brakes work, and wheels turn (it drives!)
-Lights work (you can drive at night!) Both high and low beam.
-Wipers work (you can drive in the rain!)
-Heater works and heats up quickly (you can drive in the winter!)
-One of the windows still rolls down (you can drive in the summer!)
-Blinkers mostly work (hopefully you know how to use these, unlike many drivers).
-No cracks! (Brand new windshield)
-Front brake pads recently replaced.
-Battery is pretty good, I’ve left the dome light on overnight and it still started.
-Newer starter
-Newer radiator
-New ignition wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor.
-High-performance air intake. I don’t know why, it was just there when I bought it.
-I’ll include some spare parts like new rear brake pads, new fuel filter, set of new spark plugs, and color-matched touch-up paint. Can include a beat up, oil-stained Haynes manual too.
-Despite all the problems, it has been pretty reliable.

The BAD (and the ugly):
-Sometimes it loses power and backfires/stutters when first starting, or when accelerating. No pattern or reason to it. Not a huge deal as you can pump the gas and maintain speed, and it goes away after a while. Sometimes it does this every day for 10 minutes at a time, sometimes it will go weeks without doing it. Mechanics are mystified.

-Fuel line has been replaced with flexible rubber fuel hose where it goes through the engine compartment, and fuel filter has been moved (Honda originally designed it to require 37 rare and custom tools plus two helper monkeys and a double-jointed circus contortionist to change it). The filter is now somewhere you can actually see, which is good, but the line is not stock, which might make your insurance agent cry if they find out.

-Pushbutton start! Why is this bad? Someone was dumb enough to steal the thing (out of a parking lot full of nicer cars) and broke the ignition. Thanks to Ax-Man there’s now a hidden switch/button starter instead of a keyhole. It works fine, but is a little weird.

-It leaks oil. I’ve had it in to various shops and they can’t find the source, it just keeps coming out. I have to top it off once a month or so. Put some cardboard down or expect your driveway to be spotty.

-Exhaust is mostly gone so it’s super loud. This could be a plus if you want to sound like a high-performance racer or something, I’ve had teenagers try to drag race me a few times. The muffler is new, but the pipe between the catalytic converter and muffler keeps rusting away and/or falling off. I’ve repaired/replaced it 3 times and finally gave up. I’ve only been pulled over for it once, and that was because the muffler itself was visibly missing and I was the ugliest car in a yuppie suburb with bored cops.

-As mentioned, the odometer doesn’t work and is stuck at 215k. As a wild guess it’s “probably” between 250k and 300k now, but no way to guarantee.

-Rear windows don’t roll down anymore.

-Driver’s side window opener broke. You can push it up by hand and wedge it in place (wedge included!)

-Power locks are haunted. You have to manually lock/unlock it, but sometimes it will randomly start trying to re-lock itself repeatedly for no reason. Driver’s side lock is… complicated.

-No stereo (stolen) and no speakers. Power radio antenna is jammed half-out, still works fine if you put a radio in. I can include a CD stereo, but you’ll have to figure out the wiring and get speakers.

-Front driver’s side blinker on the bumper is not quite the right size. I ordered one for this model from Amazon and they sent something else, so I made it fit with zipties and science. It has a loose wire and doesn’t always work, haven’t had time to fix it but should be simple. There are still turn signals up next to the headlights (which work).

-Speaking of zipties, the headlights are mostly held on that way. The lenses have a few cracks. They all work though!

-Some bent and damaged parts of the front frame (ran into some stuff). Again, zipties save the day. Nothing really important is damaged and you can’t tell unless you open the hood and look close.

-Front bumper is held on with screws and zipties. If you pull too close to a curb it gets stuck and falls off sometimes.

-Hood doesn’t pop from inside, the cable is jammed. Have to pull on the ziptie sticking out of the grill (see a theme yet?)

-NO A/C. Not your normal “No AC” car that just needs freon, this one is basically unrepairable The compressor seized up, the freon went away, the fan relay is dead, and I ripped out a bunch of the pipes since they were in the way. I bypassed the compressor completely after it seized, the alternator has the shorter belt now.

-Rear passenger side seatbelt doesn’t want to retract. Might be fixable.

-Various body rust, typical for this model with MN road salt. I used to care, so I fixed some areas with bondo and bought the matched color from the dealership. Now the rust is coming back in the same spots and the Bondo is falling off and I don’t care anymore. I’ll include the can of matching spray paint and a smaller color pen in case you want it to look less trashy for some reason.

-Running boards on the passenger side is falling off

-Passenger side mirror is cracked and held on with a bolt. Still works fine, power-adjust still works.

-Minor dent in rear door from high-velocity cherry tomato (There was a potato gun involved and we were like “tomatoes just go splat, right?” WRONG).

-Hole drilled in trunk lid for ham radio antenna. Radio got stolen, so there’s just a mounting bracket there now (doesn’t leak).

-Secondary fan relay is shot (The second fan is supposed to be for the AC, but AC doesn’t work anyway). The fan is supposed to also kick in at higher temps but I’ve not really needed it. The fan itself works and has a switch on the dash in case it gets really hot.

-Speaking of fans, the main cooling fan likes to come on about 30 seconds after you park, and runs for a few minutes. Doesn’t seem to be a problem.

-Below ¼ tank, if you brake hard the car will want to stall since the gas sloshes away from the intake or something. It will start up again afterwards as long as there’s some gas in the tank.

To summarize, it’s ugly, it’s jury-rigged, and it’s got loads of “personality”, but will get you from point A to point B, and possibly meets at least several safety and road-worthiness standards!

Edit: Ad will be taken down once it’s gone, so please don’t email just to ask if I still have it. Email is preferred, I have fewer times when I can make phone calls. Thanks!

This is my new coffee table!

Made to look like an antique mine cart, and it actually works! I had to put bumpers on the tracks to keep it from rolling all the way off, but it’s fun to roll back and forth on the rails.

All the materials are salvaged and scrap, so after time and labor, this was essentially “free”! The glass came with a desk from a garage sale and we didn’t want it on the desk, so even that was basically a freebie. I did pay $5 for some flexible rubber bumpers to help keep the glass from sliding around, but those were optional.

I was tempted to run tracks into the kitchen so we could load up the table with food and then wheel it out to the living room… but the tracks would be a terrible trip hazard as well as difficult to clean around!

Here are some pictures from the construction process:

The salvaged mine-gauge rails and mine-size spikes, along with weathered lumber for the ties. I assembled the track section using the spikes for an authentic look.

Early fit-testing the wheel truck and rails.

The spikes originally looked pretty bad from sitting outside for 100  years (left). On the right is a spike after wire-brushing and cleaning to remove loose rust, then coating to prevent more rust from forming.

A close-up of the rails, before and after getting the same rust removal treatment. The finished rail is still pitted and rust-colored (which I think looks cool), but doesn’t have that annoying flaky rust falling off it.

Early assembly of the mine cart box.

We have a chicken named Pei at our house. On warm days she gets to come out in a mobile open-bottomed coop known as a chicken tractor (when they’ve pecked over all the grass in one area, you can move it to the next). Recently she had an interesting visitor.

A Red-tailed Hawk, about as big as the chicken. Oddly enough, she seemed unconcerned about him perching on top of the tractor and flying from side to side. Usually she would be upset about nearby predators. The hawk has been back a few times, but can’t seem to figure out chicken wire!

Some things I semi-collect: Local and interesting cups/glasses:

Some local-history and regional-interest beers. Grain Belt is a local favorite, Hamm’s and Schmidt’s are good local-brewing-history related although the beers themselves may be a bit meh. Keweenaw Brewing has an excellent selection of historically-themed beer from Michigan’s Keweenaw Peninsula mining area, Alaskan Amber is brewed in Juneau, and Kronenbourg is a favorite among French catacomb-goers. The Cheese Cave glass showed up at a thrift shop, and I got a whole slew of the Captain Morgan glasses at a garage sale.

A few from Psycho Suzi’s (I liked the old one better), and elsewhere.

Ha, no wonder they didn’t look too hard… this is straight from the Minneapolis PD’s description of my car after it was recovered, not anything that I told them 😛

(It still mostly runs by the way, and the next person to try and steal it will get a “surprise” 🙂 )

I’ve been working off and on with several websites for my job, primarily using WordPress as a basis. I’ve found it quite a bit quicker and easier to update (which is partly why saveitforparts.com is now on wordpress!). In other ways, I’ve found WP to have some limitations, and migrating a traditional site to a blog-based site can certainly have it’s hiccups and roadblocks. There are several parts of saveitforparts.com that are still offline or broken. I also have some pet peeves about WP, such as its tendency to make certain content mysteriously vanish, or force-format your posts into what it *thinks* you want, rather than what you’ve explicitly laid out in html moments before. Overall though, it’s very convenient, easy for multiple technical or non-technical people to manage and update, and lends itself fairly well to the type of content I’m working with.

Some of the work-related sites that I currently manage are:

The Hudson Professional Building Leasing Website

Swan Leasing’s main website for Minneapolis

Rorem Realty (Currently offering Retail/Commercial in Osseo)

And additionally, I’ve been working on a site advertising my parents’ house in Alaska:

Funter Bay Alaska homestead for sale

Perhaps you’ve noticed a trend in my layouts 🙂

Just sent this to Wells Fargo, both by mail and through email. I imagine it’ll just get pitched in the trash down in the mail room or never make it through customer service, but it felt good to write it!

Dear Wells Fargo,

Congratulations on losing a customer to hidden fees and overcomplicated account restrictions. I’ve been a customer for several years, and recently noticed a new “Monthly Service Fee” on both my checking and savings accounts, in the amount of $10/month for savings, and $15/month for checking. The fee seems to have started about 6 months ago. I was a bit mystified by this, since I was told when I signed up that these were free accounts.

I called your customer service line, and the representative explained that I could avoid these fees by setting up an automatic monthly transfer of at least $75 from checking to savings. I already make manual transfers through online banking about once a month, but apparently these “don’t count”, even if they’re over the suggested minimum. She explained that I could circumvent this restriction by setting up the automatic transfer for the $75 minimum, then manually transferring the money back. So you’re basically telling me there’s no point to this requirement, and that I can get around it if I’m willing to play some games and jump through a few hoops?

I called again the next day to clarify some things, and heard that the fee structure and waiver is even more arcane than the first rep described it. I can avoid certain fees if I set up automatic transfers, or have a total minimum balance, or have a mortgage, or have X number of “qualifying” accounts. I dimly remember that I had a different account structure when I started with Wells Fargo, for a short time I had a CD, and did have a higher balance. I can only assume this is what the banker meant by “free” when I signed up, I must have just qualified for the fee waiver. Apparently my accounts no longer qualify to be free, although I can’t figure out exactly how or when that happened.

The second customer service rep was able to refund part of my most recent fees, but their explanation of exactly how to avoid future fees still doesn’t make any sense.  As you may have guessed, since it took me 6 months to notice these fees, I’m not the best at tracking my money. I have a rough idea of what goes in, what comes out, and I keep an eye on the balance to verify this. I do pretty well, but I have to remind myself of existing automatic bill payments like insurance, and I really don’t need another pointless automatic transaction or balance requirement or constant babysitting of the account. You have numerous competitors offering genuinely free accounts with none of these confusing and pointless hoops to jump through.

From what I can tell, the only possible reasons for your system are:

-1. You hope people forget that it takes a series of complicated steps to avoid fees (like I did) and you’ll make a $25/month fee for our inattention. Those $10 and $15 charges are easy to miss if you’re just scanning through a statement.

-2. You hope we’ll set up a transfer to avoid the fees, but will forget about it, and overdraw our checking accounts for even bigger fees.

What it comes down to is; I’m paying $300 a year for the privilege of having a hassle free bank account. Maybe $300 is small potatoes to your execs, but that’s more than three days of work for me! I could buy groceries for a month with $300, or a new Netbook every year, or a cheap flight across the country. I don’t need you nickel and diming me out of any of those things.

So, I’m paying you $300 a year to have an account that already makes YOU money by investing mine, and benefits me in no way. Sure, I get some infinitesimal amount of interest, so I could make back my monthly $25 in about 100 years. And sure, I have the convenience of deposits and ATMs, but for $25 a month I could cash my paychecks at the liquor store and keep my savings in a shoebox under the bed. If I want a bank account with you, I have to play a lot of games, the rules of which might change at your whim, or I have to pay you 1% of my annual income to keep my money in YOUR shoebox.

What’s that you say? The savvy customer should always scrutinize every statement, always read every bit of fine print, and have a firm grasp of banking principles? Well, this customer already has an account with another bank which doesn’t pull such tricks, has no hidden fees, and better customer service (My office got a gift basket from them for the holidays!). Ironically, this is exactly why I moved my accounts from Wells Fargo a few years ago; I was getting hidden fees at my old bank and heard that Wells Fargo was better. I guess I heard wrong. I’ll be closing my account shortly, and telling my friends to consider doing the same.

Former Wells Fargo Customer

-Gabe Emerson

Finally got the Shoebox out on the water! Also got a lot of water in the boat, as the fiberglass turned out to not be very waterproof! Fortunately we had some swim goggles and half a water bottle to bail with. We also had Alex from Milwaukee to take photos and run rings around us in his inflatable raft.

There was little to no wind on Lake Nokomis, but we got occasional puffs that let us try out the homemade sails (blue tarps). Everything seems to work, although we’d need more wind to get a better idea of the handling and performance. I’m not so sure that our homemade sails are the best shape (they’re based on a design from a 1920s Popular Mechanics boat book!)

I think I should have made the mast a bit taller, the sail plan seems stubby now. The guy who started the hull intended it to use a Sea Snark sail, which is probably similar in overall area.

It’s like Swallows and Amazons of the urban jungle 😛

Last year I regretfully had to sell my sailboat, the Pagoo. Originally a moldy derelict in Elfin Cove, I’d spent several years refurbishing, rebuilding, and sailing the 24′ Bayliner Buccaneer around northern Southeast Alaska. Since my life had taken me to Minnesota more or less long-term, and transport cross-country being cost and time-prohibitive, I decided to pass the boat on to someone else who could make use of it locally.

After posting an ad on Craigslist and some flyers around town I found a buyer. I carefully explained all the faults I could think of (and there were a few, it was a work in progress), and turned over the Pagoo along with a literal boatload of spare parts, equipment, books, and other extras.

Fast forward a year, and I get an email from someone else who had looked at buying Pagoo in 2009. They had noticed the boat tied up in Auke Bay, accumulating tickets (supposedly the new owner had secured a slip in Douglas harbor).

A quick call to the Auke Bay harbormaster confirmed it. Pagoo is apparently abandoned, the new owner unable to be reached. The dinghy is sinking at the dock, there is apparently some kind of mechanical problem (did he manage to kill BOTH outboards? Finicky as they were, they could always be persuaded to run eventually). The harbor staff indicated they were close to impounding the Pagoo, at which point it would be auctioned or, if they thought it was in bad condition, “sent to the crusher”!

I’m sure the boat is in good enough shape to have value to SOMEONE, although whether the harbor staff recognizes that, I don’t know. Even if the new owner has stripped and neglected it, it’s definitely in better shape now than it was when I got it! The rigging and hardware alone ran me almost a grand in parts. I’m hoping that someone manages to save it if it comes to harbor impoundment!

In addition, I came across this photo from March showing Pagoo parked behind the classy yacht. It looks like someone didn’t even furl the main sail properly!

I tried to contact the new owner by phone and email, with no response. What happened? Where is the owner? Why isn’t he at least trying to sell it to pay off the harbor fees and tickets?! What is going to happen to my boat? Even though it’s not “mine” anymore, I still feel bad for its sad abandoned state! If I were still in the area I’d be trying to do more, but I’m at a loss for what more I can do from the Midwest. I don’t even have much left from the sale, due to some recent medical bills.

I am kinda bummed out 😦

I sent the following to a number of St. Paul officials earlier this year. It pretty much sums up my experience with trying to find an affordable house here.

To whom it may concern,

I’m a former St. Paul resident who is interested in buying property in
the city. As a younger first time homebuyer with some construction
experience, I’d like to find something affordable in the “fixer upper”
range. However, while searching for property in St. Paul, I’ve been
frustrated time and again by the Vacant Building Registration and
Category system. I’ve had the same experience reported by friends
interested in St. Paul property. To me, the VBR system seems to run
counter to St. Paul’s goal of maintaining affordable owner-occupied
housing and a stable tax base. This system appears detrimental to the
future of St. Paul, especially in our current housing market.

For those not familiar with the Vacant Building system, here’s how it
looks to the average homebuyer. A house in St. Paul is either
“occupied” (which can mean it’s maintained by owners living
elsewhere), or it is “registered vacant” (foreclosed with occupants
evicted). If a house is “occupied”, you can buy it as-is with
disclosure of a Truth in Housing Report. If it is vacant, it falls
into one of three categories.

“Category One” is a house that city officials are relatively happy
with. It has few if any problems, but buyers may have to do some
repairs before being allowed to move in.

“Category Two” usually means the house is boarded up or has multiple
problems. To the buyer, these properties are a huge turn off. Category
Two requires a buyer to bring the property up to code (modern code,
not the code of the construction date), before being allowed to occupy
it. In practical terms, this means owner-occupants are unlikely to buy
a Category Two home, since they have to make major renovations and
live somewhere else until the city is satisfied with repairs. If the
city’s requirements are too expensive for any buyers, the house
eventually degrades into a Category Three.

“Category Three”, to the buyer, is usually a write-off. The city
considers them dangerous, and the threat of demolition hangs
constantly over the property until all work is completed. In the worst
case, these may be obviously-collapsing rotten wrecks, but sometimes
they’re simply foreclosed properties that have sat for a while and
deteriorated past Category Two, perhaps by having the copper stolen or
the windows broken. Even if repairable, these houses are avoided by
everyone, and typically torn down at the city’s expense.

To the outsider (the typical homebuyer), the formula for categorizing
vacant houses is a mysterious and arcane process. Information on
specific properties is available in a city database, but can be
confusing or meaningless out of context. Common things like “partial
basements” or “poor handrails” can apparently decide a house’s fate.
Interior items like rusty furnaces and cracked plumbing fixtures,
though not structurally part of the house, might tip the scales
between categories, suddenly requiring an otherwise sound building to
be completely modernized to today’s standards. Code Compliance can
mean everything from larger windows, higher ceilings, and new wiring,
to a complete rebuild of major structural elements. Due to the
difference in building and housing codes over time, Code Compliance
can be impractical and cost prohibitive for historic homes. It can be
a death sentence for any house over a certain age.

What does this mean to the St. Paul home buyer? Essentially, a large
percentage of vacant properties are not worth considering. The VBR
system is a frightening and incomprehensible thing.  Non-savvy buyers
could purchase a home and then find themselves facing unaffordable
repairs or imminent demolition. Even informed buyers can find a
property has slipped from one category to another between purchase and
closing, as seen in recent news articles. Properties in the same
condition can be found in more handyman-friendly municipalities as
“Fixer Uppers”, where the buyer can purchase, live in, and repair the
house at their convenience, not on the city’s schedule. For the first
time homebuyer like me, looking for a deal or a “handyman special”,
these factors make St. Paul quite unattractive. Anything affordable in
the city is treated with suspicion, or ignored completely.

What does this mean for St. Paul? Intentional or not, the city is
preventing many vacant properties from being re-occupied. With a
number of nearby cities to choose from, some with less stringent
requirements, there’s no reason for anyone to buy a Category Two or
Three house. These houses will eventually be torn down at city
expense. The land will either sit vacant, be taken by the city for
delinquent taxes, or be bought for a few thousand to expand a
neighbor’s yard. In any case, there is little to no income for the
city. Not just the property tax, but also the sales tax and economic
activity from potential residents are gone. The city can hope that
someone will eventually build a modern home on that lot, but this is
unlikely even in the best of economic times. Builders and buyers of
new homes do not like city-size lots. They don’t like “problem areas”
with high numbers of vacant or demolished buildings. During economic
boom times, new construction happens in the suburbs. During economic
downturns, buyers choose cheaper existing properties rather than
expensive new construction. The city can finance or subsidize projects
on the land, but these come with their own financial burden. This
results in a lose-lose situation, a house demolished or categorized
out of affordability today might never profit the city again.

I can see three supposed benefits of the Vacant Building registration
system, but I feel that they are empty benefits, already provided by
other programs. For one, homebuyers may be saved by the VBR from
buying an unsafe or dangerous house. However, they are already
protected by the Truth in Housing program, which requires informed
consent through independent assessment and disclosure of property
condition. Secondly, the VBR and Code Compliance requirements may
prevent the spread of substandard rental property. However, there are
already separate rental licensing and fire safety programs to prevent
this, each with its own inspections. Thirdly, required repairs may
keep people from neglecting dilapidated or ugly houses. Again, there
is already a program for this, the city can and does levy assessments
against properties for anything from trashy yards to decaying
exteriors, so a buyer cannot simply ignore repairs. In all three
cases, major repairs also require licensed contractors, and there are
state and federal codes covering safety and quality standards. As
such, there is really no reason for the VBR and Category system to
exist. It is redundant, it does nothing to protect buyers, and it does
nothing to mitigate the spread of vacant housing. If anything, the VBR
and Category system encourages the neglect and eventual destruction of
vacant homes.

I realize that city politics move slowly, and change may be unpopular.
However, as a frustrated homebuyer trying to become a contributing St.
Paul resident, I feel that some reform is needed. Eliminate the VBR
and Category system. Eliminate the threats of Code Compliance and
demolition for all but the very worst properties. Allow buyers to live
in and repair properties as their time and finances allows. Reconsider
the Code Compliance requirements so that older properties don’t need
to be fully modernized, OR, offer and publicize incentives for the
average person to afford Code Compliance. Relax the restrictions and
eliminate some of the hoops that homebuyers have to jump through. Work
to attract people who are dedicated to improving old homes, and thus
improving neighborhoods and the city as a whole. We can keep St. Paul
beautiful, livable, and free of neglected properties, but it doesn’t
have to be done by tearing down half the city and driving away
residents. Give the handymen and fixer-upper buyers a break, and give
the tax base of St. Paul a break.

Thank you for your consideration,

-Gabe Emerson
Minneapolis, MN