Funter Bay History: Post Office

August 26, 2014

postmark2

The Funter post office opened in July of 1902. Located at the Thlinket Packing Co cannery, It served local residents, cannery and mine workers, and outlying homesteads and fox farms. I’ve previously mentioned the post office in discussions of communication and mail boats.

po_crop

Photo by Harold Hargrave. Undated (post-1941). Courtesy of Alaska State Library, Place File. ASL-P01-3753.

Even before a formal post office was founded, a number of mail boats would stop at Funter on a regular basis to serve the mines there, relying on passenger and freight traffic to cover their costs.

flosie

An article in the January 1903 Daily Alaska Dispatch noted that Funter Bay had a post office, but did not yet have a contract for mail delivery.  In March of 1903 the assistant postmaster general for Alaska reportedly was considering “the establishment of better mail facilities for Funter post-office” (Daily Record-Miner). By June there was an initial contract with Henry Shattuck to deliver mail every 6 weeks. Shattuck reportedly arranged to buy the steamer Prosper from the Alaska Steamship Co in July of 1903, then formed the Juneau Steamship Co in August and decided to buy the Georgia instead. He is better known for his real estate and insurance ventures, but maintained ownership in various mail boats for some time as well.

mail contract

Various boats which carried the mail, either under government contract or on an ad-hoc basis, included the Flosie, Rustler, Georgia, Seolin, St. Nicholas, Ramona, Estebeth, Forester, Margnita, and likely several others.

Mail Steamer Rustler 1903

In 1906 a government report described “A cannery, a store, and a post-office with weekly mail service via Juneau” at Funter Bay.

georgia

1906 Mail Steamer ad

A 1912 Dispatch article discussed the mail service to outlying communities, including Funter Bay. Mail from outside was received in Juneau on steamships, then sorted and distributed to mail boats serving the surrounding area. The Juneau postal staff complained of the burden of meeting late or irregular boats.

St Nicholas ad 1915

1915 Advertisement

The Funter post office served an area extending across Lynn Canal to Point Couverden (with several fox farms), and down Mansfield Peninsula to Hawk Inlet. A cannery opened at Hawk Inlet around 1911, and several mines were operating around 1900, but there was no post office there until 1913. Prior to that year, someone had to row 15 miles to Funter or walk over the mountain to pick up the mail. This was not without risks, as mentioned in a previous post, a Mr. J. Caper fell and broke his ankle while crossing the mountain on a 1910 mail run.

Mail at Funter was general delivery, recipients had to visit the post office to pick up their mail. Addresses consisted of the recipient’s name with “Funter, Alaska” or “Funter Bay” underneath, zip codes were not used until the 1960s. Much of rural Alaska shared the 5-digit 99850, Funter Bay’s full zip code was 99850-0140. The USPS serial number for the Funter post office was 05544.

postal cover 2

Freight could also be sent this way, although the following letter (found in government archives) notes that the mail boat would not carry certain items like blasting powder.

letter2

This history of postmasters at Funter is somewhat patchy, and seems to include several people who resigned or left suddenly, leaving other residents to fill in until being officially recognized by the USPS. A list of Postmasters with their start dates is below, based on various government and journal records as well as Melvin Ricks’ Alaska’s Postmasters and Postoffices; 1867-1963.

Postmasters at Funter Post Office:

-James T. Largan, appointed July 3rd 1902.

-James T. Barron (Cannery owner), appointed June 24 1904. Received $10.00 in compensation for the position. (ref) (As Barron was only on-site in the summers, there may have been a cannery caretaker covering the position unofficially in the winters, handling mail for the mines and other residents).

-William N. Williams, appointed 5-7-1926. Listed as the cannery superintendent in 1929 (per Pacific Fisherman, Vol 27, 1929).

-Raymond A. Perry, appointed 5-13-1930. Resigned in June of 1931, Clarence Withrow or Charles Otteson suggested as replacements.

-Clarence A Withrow (or Winthrow?). Appointed 6-29-1931, status changed / “assumed charge” again on 9/30/1931 (perhaps confirmed as permanent from a temporary status?). Also a cannery employee. Taken ill with appendicitis in November of 1934, requiring an operation (per Pacific Fisherman, Vol 32, 1934).

-Burdine H. Carroll. Appointed (took over after Withrow fell ill?) on 9-12-1934, “Assumed Charge” again 11/17/34 (again, this probably indicates the date he was confirmed as permanent). Resigned without official permission 10-1-1939. Some genealogical information is here. According to the Petersburg Press, Carroll was appointed in October.

Carrol appointed postmaster

-John H. Hibbs, appointed 10-24-1939, also “Assumed Charge” / confirmed 11-19-39. Died in office, no date given, probably 1941.

-Hans Floe, appointed 7-8-1941. As with predecessors, “Assumed Charge” 9-19-41. Removed from office (no date, probably 1944). Employee of the P.E. Harris Packing Co, who owned the cannery at the time. Had previously been the superintendent at the Hawk Inlet cannery (per Pacific Fisherman, Vol 39, 1941). According to Kinky Bayers’ notes, Hans came to the US from Norway in 1905, started with P.E. Harris in 1911, and died in 1947 at age 61. His wife was Marie Hansine Floe and daughters were Marie, Odney, Haldis, and Agnes.

<Post office discontinued in 1944, effective December 31st, but order rescinded on November 27th>

-Harold F. Hargrave, appointed 11-30-1944. (Some sources say he served as Postmaster starting in 1941). AC/confirmed 1-1-1945. May have “officially” been the postmaster until ~1955 with others filling in during the later years. Lived at Funter until the 1980s.

Harold Hargrave Bears

Harold Hargrave at Funter Bay in the 1940s. Photo courtesy of Alaska State Library, Place File, ASL-P01-3842

-Virgil S. Aubert. Unlike predecessors, he is noted as “Assumed Charge” on 11-6-1953, with no formal appointment. He is listed as “Acting” Postmaster on 12-14-1953. May have been filling in for Hargrave. Some genealogical information is here.

-Stanley Warnock. Also “Assumed Charge” on 7-9-1954, without a full appointment, listed as “Acting” 8-6-1954, formally appointed 8-5-1955, and again “Assumed Charge” 9-30-1955. Probably the same person as “Curly” Warnock who lived in Funter Bay with his wife Cora (per Lazette Ohman).

The American Philatelist, Volume 68 of 1954 notes that:

“Funter is a mining-fishing town on Funter Bay, Admiralty Island, at the mouth of Lynn Canal. It was named in 1883 by Dall for Captain Robert Funter, an early explorer-surveyor. Mining, hunting, fishing, and trapping provide work for the employables among the ten white and Indian residents. There are no schools or churches. Office opened July 3, 1902 (James T. Largan). Present Postmaster, Harold T. Hargrave.”

After the cannery stopped regular packing operations in 1931, a year-round watchman remained on site. He operated the company store and the post office. The postal guide for 1931 noted that it was open year round, but did not issue money orders. The company store remained open, and the property was still used for fish trap and vessel maintenance.

postal cover 1

In the 1940s the post office was inside the company store at the cannery. It was reportedly a partitioned room in the southeast corner of the building, which also housed the canteen and dining room.

Below is a WWII-era postal cover with Funter postmark. The “Emergency Flight” stamp appears to be a reference to Emergency Air Mail, a federal law allowing air mail at ground postage rates for communities cut off from normal surface mail. This was intended for communities affected by floods or other problems, but became popular in rural Alaska. It seems to have been common to mail these to the nearest major post office (in this case, Juneau), then have a forward or return address for the final intended address.

Letter3a Letter4a

Air mail began appearing around the 1930s, with the government experimenting with different air carriers and contracts for rural service. A 1947 advertisement for Alaska Coastal Airlines notes that “Air Express” service was available to and from Funter and other small communities by request on a variable schedule.

Alaska Coastal Ad - Daily Sitka Sentinel - 9 Jul 1947

After WWII, the post office was apparently in a separate small building for some time. This building had been the US Fish & Wildlife Service office during the Aleut internment.

The Funter post office was discontinued for the second and final time on April 19th, 1957. After the post office closed, Funter Bay became a mail stop or drop, the cannery watchman would meet the weekly plane at the dock and residents could pick up their mail at his residence. There was no longer a paid position under the USPS, and mail was postmarked in Juneau.

Sometime after Hargrave’s tenure as postmaster, a cannery watchmen and his wife apparently operated a house of ill repute at the property. By some accounts there was an illegal bar and even occasionally “ladies of negotiable affection” (as Terry Pratchett might say). They also supposedly ran some kind of mail-order scam against Sears and other catalogs.  I will try to expand on this in a future post as I find more details!

The watchman in 1972 was Scotty Todd, a retired mine driller. Reportedly when the mail brought his social security check he would drop everything, jump on the plane, and go to Juneau bars until the money was gone. Neighbors would pick up and sort the mail and turn off Scotty’s generator on the occasions when he disappeared.

My Dad provided some information on mail service in the 1970s:

“The Forester was the first mail boat I rode on to Funter in 1972, owner/operator was Dave Rischel (sp?). Then he got the Betty R, had a hell of a time getting it Coast Guard approved.  The Forester was approved amazingly enough with 4 automatic bilge pumps and one was always running.  Dave did the run to Angoon, Tenakee, Hoonah, Elfin and Pelican and of course all the little places where anyone lived like Funter, Hawk Inlet.  So when the Ferry system started up Dave got put out of business….

When I first moved there the mail boat came once a week (weather permitting).  You would give Dave your list and he would buy what you wanted and charge a minimal fee.  Everything from food to bringing me the plywood for my dory.  We had twice a week plane service also, which was pretty handy for getting back and fourth to town.  Seat fare was something like $20.  Per usual lots of drinking and talking at the cannery when you got the mail from Scotty and then Jim and Blanche.”

Around 1978 the Federal government began “Essential Air Service” aka “Essential Air Transportation” which guaranteed weekly mail delivery to Funter Bay and other rural Alaskan communities. This service continues in many rural communities today.

 

EAS 1992

Jim and Blanche Doyle took over the caretaker job and the mail sorting around 1973 or ’74. After they moved across the bay (around 1983), mail planes generally came to the beach at Crab Cove. The actual spot depended heavily on the tide, weather, and any passengers. Outgoing letters and packages could be left with whoever met the weekly plane. Absent residents could pick up their mail from the big mail box near the usual spot for the plane to come ashore

My Dad’s photo of the post office and “Postmaster” Jim Doyle in the 1970s deserves another use!
postmaster

 


The “Mayor” of Funter Bay

August 21, 2014

A 1954 article in the Fairbanks Daily News Miner mentions one Harold Gill of Portland, who was supposedly known as the “Mayor of Funter Bay”. Gill worked on boats and canneries at Funter Bay in 1912, 1913, and 1919. Gill was apparently “elected mayor” of Funter Bay in 1919 while working at Barron’s cannery, in a likely tongue-in-cheek campaign . Being essentially a company town, Funter did not really have any government or elected officials. However, according to Gill; “Since he has had no notice of a subsequent election, he still carries the title”.

gill3

1956 photo from the Special Collections & Archives Research Center, Oregon State University

When the article was written in 1954, Gill was vice president of his family business (the J.K. Gill company), and was visiting Alaska as a group of 20 Portland businessmen. He made regular trips to Alaska and was chairman of the Portland chamber’s Alaska committee.

gill

Harold D Gill was born around 1888 in Oregon and attended the Oregon Agricultural College (later Oregon State University), one of four men in the first (1910) graduating class in the newly formed school of Forestry. Although educated as a forester and experienced as a book seller (making many trips to Alaska selling textbooks), Gill apparently longed for a seagoing life. A classmate recalls Gill being the class character, his notebooks containing sketches of sailing ships rather than notes on the lectures.

gill2

From the Special Collections & Archives Research Center, Oregon State University

Gill ended up fishing and sailing in many different parts of the state. In June of 1912, he was reportedly working the night shift at a cannery in Nushagak, AK, where he witnessed and wrote about a volcanic eruption. Gill wrote a book in 1913 about his salmon fishing experiences.

Harold married Amy Robinson in September of 1918. Both were reportedly from prominent Portland families, they lived on Montgomery Drive in Portland and Amy designed a large garden at the property. The couple moved to a new home on Talbot Road around 1922. Harold appears to have passed away around 1967 at the age of 79.

gill5

From the Special Collections & Archives Research Center, Oregon State University

While Gill’s term as “Mayor” was likely just a joke, his story adds another interesting piece to Funter Bay’s history.


Funter Bay History: More 1929 Photos

August 20, 2014

I recently came across some additional photos from the 1929 Alaskan Aerial Survey, conducted by the US Navy. Thanks to Richard Carstensen for sharing these! Richard had an excellent website at juneaunature.org. Also thanks to Kim Homan with the Southeast Alaska GIS Library for providing some reference information. They have put together An ArcGIS interface for locating and viewing additional aerial photos from this set.

These are very large photos, click to open them full size (may take a while to load on a slow connection).

Funter Bay viewed from the North, looking almost directly South down Chatham Strait towards Chichagof Island:

ob07016_funter75

1929 US Navy Alaska Aerial Survey Expedition (Sargent, R. and Moffit, F. 1929. Aerial photographic surveys in Southeast Alaska. USGS Bull 797-E.)

Green Mountain is in the foreground on the left. Mt Robert Barron is further ahead on the left. The large island at the head of the bay is Highwater Island, with a medium tide filling the estuary behind it, but not covering the sandbar connecting it to shore.

The next photo is not at Funter, but across Lynn Canal at Swanson Harbor (behind Point Couverden). This location was used by the Thlinket Packing Co to store fish traps in the winter, and as a convenient harbor for packers during rough weather. I found it interesting because several complete and partial fish traps are seen stored in the shallows at the head of the harbor.

ob05023_swanson

1929 US Navy Alaska Aerial Survey Expedition (Sargent, R. and Moffit, F. 1929. Aerial photographic surveys in Southeast Alaska. USGS Bull 797-E.)

This area goes dry at low tide, as seen in the modern photo below:

se05_ml_6682

Photo from NOAA Alaska Shorezone (https://alaskafisheries.noaa.gov/shorezone/) used as public domain.

The traps have long since disintegrated from weather and tides, ending up as mossy logs on the beaches. The pilings driven into the mudflats in the 1929 photo have also disappeared.

In addition to use as a fish trap staging area, Swanson Harbor was tied to Funter by mail service. A few homesteads and fox farms at Point Couverden received their mail at the Funter Bay post office. A cannery was reportedly begun at Swanson Harbor around 1902 by Buschmann, Thorpe & Co, but the company failed before construction was completed. There may have been a cannery or saltery prior to this, 1897 nautical charts indicate a cannery in the same location.  An 1880 map of Swanson Harbor shows an “Abandoned Indian Village” in the location of the structure seen in 1929. This is drifting further off topic, but I found it interesting enough to include here:

Swanson 1880


Funter Bay History: Piledrivers

July 19, 2014

Construction in intertidal zones relies heavily on pilings. These posts are driven into the sand and mud of the tide flats and ocean bottom. This common construction method was (and still is) used to install docks, fish traps, wharves, and buildings extending out into the water. Pilings are similar to telephone poles in length and diameter. Installing pilings is much like hammering a nail, a large heavy object is used to repeatedly hit the top of the pole, driving it into the ground.

piledriver3


Diagram of a piledriver, from Foster, Wolcott C, “A Treatise on Wooden Trestle Bridges and Their Concrete Substitutes: According to the Present Practice on American Railroads”. 4th Edition, New York, John Wiley & Sons, 1913.

In the above design, the hammer (usually a cast metal weight) slides up and down on the vertical section of the tower, pulled by cable from a winch at the rear. Piledrivers could be mounted on skids, barges, rail cars, or other platforms as needed. This design is essentially unchanged from Roman times, when drivers were powered by animals or humans. They later evolved to use steam and then internal combustion power, but the appearance largely stayed the same until the advent of diesel impact, pneumatic, and vibratory hammers.

Tractor-powered pile driver in Alaska in 1942, courtesy Library of Congress:
piledriver1

Piledriver hammer found underwater at Funter Bay and pulled out on shore. Note the slots on the side where the hammer would ride the vertical support rails:
hammer1

Closeup showing the maker of the hammer: Vulcan Iron Works of Seattle:
hammer2

Some information on Vulcan pile driver history can be found here.

A 1926 photo of a pile driver in Funter Bay can be seen below:
piledriver

While modern docks generally use creosote-coated (or metal) pilings for rot resistance, early installations used untreated pilings. These have largely decayed and disappeared above the water line, although the buried sections and pilings that are above mean water level are more preserved.

Pilings at Scow Bay, as seen previously on this site:
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Stubs of pilings which seem to have been cut off at ground level:
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Complex piling structure supporting the approach ramp to the cannery dock:
pilings

An old pile driver is abandoned on “The Point” in Crab Cove. This was a smaller unit mounted on a skid base, it may have been part of Ray Martin’s scheme to build a logging railroad dock there, or could be leftover from some other project in the bay. The A-frame support collapsed sometime in the last 20 years, I remember when it was still standing. Power was provided by a small stationary gas engine. The large cubical tank or boiler nearby is of unknown origin.

piledriver2


Funter Bay History: Aids to Navigation

May 29, 2014

Several navigational aids exist in and around Funter Bay to guide vessels entering and traversing the area. These include the Clear Point light, the “Green Can”, and the Naked Island light, as well as some informal private markers and buoys.

Green Can chart

Prior to establishment of lights and buoys, navigators relied on written descriptions of which course to take based on local landmarks, such as these published in the 1891 Pacific Coast Pilot:

1891 Sailing Directions

The “Green Can” buoy near the entrance (Marking Curlew Reef) was the first official navigation marker in Funter Bay. It was originally a Black Can when installed in 1906. It was located slightly to the NE from the current Green Can. This buoy indicates that vessels should pass to the right when entering (keeping the buoy off the Port side) to avoid the reef off Bare Island.

1906 Can

cans

The Naked Island light was established in May 1915, as described below:

naked

Naked2
Naked Island Light. Photo from Alaska Shorezone project, used as public domain.

The Clear Point light was established in August of 1915, and consisted of a flashing white light of 15 candlepower, with “flash 0.2 second, eclipsed 1.8 seconds”, installed in a “small white house on Clear Point, northern side of the entrance to Funter Bay”.

1934 Survey of Clear Point Lighthouse Reserve:
Clear Point Lighthouse Survey

Modern Clear Point Light:
Clear Point
Photo from Alaska Shorezone project, used as public domain. 

The descriptions of both lights resemble the one seen below (from nearby Point Retreat):

pointretreatMinor
Public Domain photo from US Coast Guard

Both were originally listed as acetylene gas lights, some information on such lights can be found here. Devices invented early in the 20th century allowed gas lights to flash automatically at night and shut off during the day through use of a heat-operated “sun valve”. Early acetylene lights used calcium carbide with a water drip system to generate the gas, similar to a miner’s headlamp, as it was considered unsafe to compress acetylene. Later systems used compressed storage tanks after the technology had improved.

gas lantern 3

Solar panels and batteries began replacing gas lights in navigational aids in the 1950s, although some lighthouses and beacons used acetylene into the 90s. Based on the changed notation on charts, Naked Island’s light seems to have been upgraded around 1971, and Clear Point around 1974.

Color tests in 1979 proved that green-colored buoys were more visible that traditional black cans. The can at Curlew Ledge changed color between 1978 and 1987 according to navigational charts.

can2

Modern charts describe the Clear Point light as green with a 2.5 second period, 16ft above mean sea level on a platform marked “1”. The Naked Island light is noted as being 44′ above sea level with a 6-second period, not numbered. The Green Can is marked with a number “3”. The original Black Can was in almost the same location and was first marked “2”, and is shown on later charts marked “1” No marker numbered “2” is nearby presently.

Buoys and lights were initially installed and maintained by the US Lighthouse Commission, today they are under the jurisdiction of the US Coast Guard. Special buoy tender vessels provide regular maintenance to these navigational aids.

The closest manned light station was the Point Retreat Lighthouse at the Northern tip of Admiralty Island. Initially completed in 1904, it was later unmanned and downgraded in 1917, then rebuilt and re-manned in 1924, then automated again in 1973. It is now privately owned and there are plans to make it a museum and B&B.

Private navigation markers are sometimes placed on rocks, reefs, wreckage, or other obstructions, and are not consistently styled or maintained. The most common is a stick or pipe which protrudes above the water surface at high tide, marking a submerged object which could endanger a boat. Small buoys may also be anchored to such obstructions, although they tend to become covered with barnacles and sink after a few years if not maintained.

Below is a pole marking the old tugboat propeller in our front yard, at high tide the water would often cover the propeller, hiding it from skiffs and planes coming ashore. The pole was a popular perch for birds, especially kingfishers.
stick

And occasionally you’d get an “aid to navigation” that was completely out of place but still appropriate, such as a float buoy used as a trail marker on land:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA


Funter Bay History: Weather

May 8, 2014

Many people from outside Alaska inquire about the cold and snow, which usually leads into a discussion of Southeast Alaska’s climate (the rainy season, and the lots-of-rain season). The temperature rarely falls below 0°F in the winter, due to warm ocean currents which reach Southeast Alaska from the Pacific Ocean. In general the climate is similar to Seattle (although wetter and about 10° cooler on average). Between 1980 and 1996 there were on average 214 days a year with precipitation. Rainfall averages about 60″ per year (compared to 37″ for Seattle and 45″ for Vancouver BC). However, it’s not as wet as other parts of Alaska like Whittier (156″), Yakutat (155″) or Ketchikan (141″).

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

N002Graphic from http://pubs.usgs.gov/ha/ha730/ch_n/N-AKtext1.html

Average air temperatures are in the 60s in summer and 30s in the winter, with extreme highs in the 80s and extreme lows in the negative single digits.

The water temperature at Funter varies between about 37°F in the winter and 50°F in the summer. Warm enough for summer swimming, especially near the shore. Dark rocks and gravel warm up in the sun at low tide, then help to warm the shallows as the tide comes in.

weather5

When it does snow, the accumulation can initially be deep (15″ in a 24hr period and 34″ total depth are some of the records). The snow does not tend to last long, instead melting into slush or getting rained on, so total buildup does not get as impressive as other parts of Alaska such as Prince William Sound and Southcentral Alaska.

weather1OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Wind is the major hazard of winter weather. While many sites on the shore are protected from the worst wind by their location and nearby trees, the center of the bay can experience powerful gusts coming in from Lynn Canal and Icy Strait, as well as North wind out of the pass behind the bay. Weather Data from Point Retreat lighthouse shows several storms with 50-60mph winds in Lynn Canal in recent years.

Winds coming in from the channel can sometimes whip up large williwaws or small waterspouts in the bay:
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Unsuspecting boats have been driven ashore on occasion after anchoring in the middle of the bay (a location shown as a good anchorage on some charts). The public docks are usually better options for secure moorage if a storm is forecast.

Weather data from 1961-1996 for Funter Bay, with various summary tables and calculations, can be found here.

Another collection of weather data for Funter Bay (from 1980 to 1996) is available here.

Weather reporting from Funter Bay was part of the National Weather Service’s Cooperative Observers program. This provided vital information for pilots, fishermen, and other travelers, as well as supporting weather forecasting on a wider regional scale. Funter residents Jim and Blanche Doyle operated the Funter station and called in regular weather observations or “obs” to the local NWS office. An index from 1980 showing some of these stations (including Funter Bay) is below:

weather 1980

In 1985 the Doyles moved across the bay, the weather station was placed on the inactive list in June, then relocated and reactivated in August (per NOAA / National Cooperative Observer Newsletter).

A newspaper column on Alaska weather noted that Funter Bay had the statewide high of 60°F on November 25, 1987 (vs 45° at Juneau and a statewide low of -39° at Umiat that same day).

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Also of importance to residents and travelers are the tides, which can change the water level 20 vertical feet in a 6-hour period. Tides are a predictable phenomenon based on the gravitation pull of the sun and moon, so tide tables are calculated and published well in advance. However, currents and geography can cause some local variations. For this reason, the government has established tide gauges at various places around Alaska in different years, including at Funter Bay. These would show the offset in minimum and maximum tidal fluctuations. Government documents refer to self-registering tide gauges installed at Funter Bay in 1894, in 1903, 1923, and 1960. NOAA’s tide data and upcoming tide tables for Funter Bay can be found here.

tide


Funter Bay History – Health & Medicine

April 23, 2014

Medical care in rural Alaska has always been problematic. The distance from doctors and hospitals can be inconvenient at the best of times, and life-threatening at other times. Throughout the years there have been a number of traveling doctors, dentists, and other medical professionals who visited rural areas of Alaska. Some of these have been mentioned before (such as the floating dental clinic Anna Helen which sank near Funter in 1928).

While immediate first aid frequently involved a jug of whiskey, more serious injuries usually required a trip to Juneau. The following are some accidents and medical incidents noted in historic newspapers (mainly the Daily Alaska Dispatch of Juneau):

-Undated: Two prospectors near Point Retreat were reportedly thawing frozen dynamite in their cabin, when it exploded. The cabin was destroyed and one man was seriously injured. The other set out for help, but the weather was too bad for his boat, so he walked six hours to Funter Bay along the beach. The miners at Funter dressed the injured man’s wounds and kept him warm until a steamer could bring him to the hospital four days later. (source).

-May 5, 1902: A fisherman named Brookler from the Funter Bay cannery had a pistol ball wound in his hand dressed, the shot was reported to be accidental.

-April 16, 1906: Miner J.W. Fox was in the hospital suffering from inflammatory rheumatism.

-April 11, 1908: “A Chinaman” from Funter Bay “had been fooling with a gun” and shot himself through the hand.

(Some other accidental gunshot wounds are mentioned in another post).

-June 24, 1908: An “Indian lad” broke his arm at the elbow and severe complications set in. James T. Barron brought him to Juneau on the vessel Phillip P Kelly for medical care.

-Sept 26, 1908. Funter Bay prospector Oliver Farnum died at the Sister’s hospital in Juneau, about sixty years of age. He had been “ailing for about six months”.

-June 28, 1909: “While working on one of the dams at Funter Bay”, Joseph Rose slipped and fell, fracturing two ribs. He was brought to the Simpson hospital in Juneau on the Georgia.

-December 21, 1909: Soldier J. T. Karr from Fort Seward (Haines) was injured while hunting at Funter Bay and was brought to St. Ann’s Hospital. His name is also given as John Carr in another article. The unfortunate fellow tripped on a rock and managed to fall neck-first onto an axe, which had frozen into the ground edge-upwards. The accident would have been fatal if not for a trained nurse who happened to be at Funter Bay and was able to dress and stitch the wound.

-October 31, 1910: Mr J. Caper from Hawk Inlet had walked to Funter over the mountain to pick up the mail. While returning to Hawk Inlet in the dark, he fell over a steep embankment and broke his ankle. Caper dragged himself the rest of the way over the ground, arriving four hours late, and was taken to St. Ann’s hospital on the mailboat Rustler.

-January 26, 1912: J. Olson was taken to the hospital from Funter Bay with an acute case of rheumatism.

-July 20, 1915. Funter bay prospector W. C. Miller, age 65, came down with pneumonia and took the mail boat Georgia to Juneau. He was placed in the hospital at once, but died the next day.

-Feb 27, 1917. Sam Larson had a severe attack of pneumonia and was brought to the General Hospital in Juneau. The same day, Dan Barlow of Funter Bay was released from the hospital after undergoing eye treatment.

-June 23, 1917: Sam Olson was injured in a fall at Funter Bay and taken to St. Ann hospital.

-June 26, 1917: Harry Cratty suffered a ruptured appendix at Funter Bay and was operated upon by Dr. Dawes at the General hospital.

-June 30, 1917: Olaf Johnson from Funter Bay was also operated on by Dr. Dawes

-August 1, 1917: G.C. Coffin, an employee of the Funter Bay cannery, received eye treatment at the General Hospital

-Feb 26, 1918. Captain Woods of the cannery tender Anna Barron fell 20ft down a ladder and then into the water, he was taken to St. Ann’s hospital and reported in good condition with no broken bones.

-August 17, 1919: Miss B. Blaire, a trained nurse, was taken to the hospital from Funter Bay where she had become dangerously ill with “brain fever”.

Medical care fell to a disappointing low during the WWII internment of Aleut evacuees at Funter. Government logs report that the accepted treatment for a fatal strain of flu was to “sweat it out”.

After WWII, the Teritorial Department of Health operated several floating clinics, including the MS Hygiene. This boat, sometimes known as the “shot ship”, provided vaccinations, checkups, x-rays, and other services to rural families all along the Alaskan coast (detailed article here).

hygiene

-October 1, 1956: Rod Darnell of Sitka was bear hunting near Funter Bay and failed to kill his prey with the first shot. The wounded bear charged him and gave him severe lacerations to the head and neck. Darnell was treated on-site by a doctor flown out from Juneau, then brought to St. Ann’s hospital for further treatment. A story in Alaska Bear Tales relates another mauled hunter being flown out of Funter Bay in 1957.

-July 5, 1957: Ione Puustinen of Funter Bay was admitted to the Sitka Community Hospital

-June 30th 1987: An article titled “State Repeats PSP Warnings” told of an out-of-state visitor who became ill after eating mussels at Funter Bay. Officials talked of the danger of paralytic shellfish poisoning, or PSP. Filter feeders such as mussels accumulate toxins from algae (the so called “Red Tide“) in their bodies. The victim was flown to Juneau for treatment and recovered. For many years there was a large skull and crossbones painted on one of the Funter Bay floats, with the warning “Don’t eat Mussels”.

The Alaskan bush can be a dangerous place. While most of these incidents had happy endings, they serve as a reminder to watch your step, watch the critters, and be careful what you eat (and don’t thaw your dynamite on the stove!)


Funter Bay History: Ships Part IV

April 16, 2014

A 1907 article noted that the steamship Humboldt traveled from Funter Bay to Seattle in September, bringing 85 passengers and 7,875 cases of salmon (this included some cases from Petersburg as well as Funter).

humboldt

An article in the San Francisco Call of November 18th, 1911, described the Bark J.D. Peters arriving from Funter Bay, where it served as a cannery tender. Unlike the Thlinket Packing Co’s General Fairchild and other old ships converted to barges, the Peters seems to have remained a sailing vessel. It is shown in a 1911 photo with furled sails. Another photo (which also appeared in the Seattle Daily Times dated 1911) shows the ships with sails raised.

Peters
The merchant vessel registry describes the Peters as a 182ft sailing bark built in 1875 in Bath, Maine, and operating out of Port Townsend, Washington. It had a crew of 15 and a gross tonnage of 1,085. Registry number was 75809, and call numbers were J.R.L.F. It was owned by the Northwestern Fisheries Co during that time, and probably transported fish from multiple canneries in Alaska.

Peters2

In 1912 it was listed as a schooner, vs a bark. A bark has 3+ masts, all with square sails except the aft-most, and were a common type of slow cargo ships with smaller crews. A schooner has 2+ masts with fore-and-aft sails, even simpler to operate and requiring fewer crew than a bark, but does not necessarily perform as well. The Peters remained on the registry until at least 1928, when it had a crew of 5 and was hauling freight for the Booth Fisheries Co.

Also in 1911, the sailing steamship State of California went aground for four hours at Funter Bay, probably due to a misreading of the tide tables.

state of california
Image courtesy of the Library of Congress.

Daily Colonialist - City of California Aground at Funters Bay

The State of California sank in August 1913 in Gambier Bay, on Southern Admiralty Island, after striking an uncharted rock. More information on the ship is here.

Two photos show a hull on the beach at Funter in 1929 and 1935. The vessel is unidentified, but may be the fishing vessel Pilot. A 1950’s article mentions a “rotting hulk in Funter Bay” in this area, with the registry number 150650. This number was assigned to the Pilot, listed as abandoned in 1925. It was a 50ft long fishing boat from Juneau with a 20hp gas engine and crew of 5, built in Seattle in 1893. It had possibly been a steam tugboat previously.

1935 wreck

1935 image of abandoned vessel at Funter Bay

1929 Wreck

1929 aerial of abandoned vessel at Funter Bay

More shipping and vessel information will probably show up in a future post as I dig up more on the subject!


Funter Bay History: Electricity

March 25, 2014

Electric power began replacing direct mechanical drives in Alaskan industry in the early 1900s. The first adopters were larger companies who could afford the investment in new equipment, but smaller operations soon learned the efficiency and flexibility of electric motors.

Some 1920s-era knob and tube wiring for lights at the cannery:
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Despite the growing popularity of electricity, electric lights were slow to gain a foothold. Kerosene lamps continued to be popular in many houses and cabins well into the 1980s. Despite being a fire hazard, kerosene was relatively cheap and convenient to use.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Portable lighting moved slowly from lanterns to battery flashlights. In local mines, carbide lamps remained popular into the 1970s. A mixture of portable lights are seen below, including an older brass carbide lamp, 1930s electric (battery) railway lantern found at Funter, and a 1970s carbide lamp:
SONY DSC

Part of a larger “Radio Battery” ca 1950s:
SONY DSC
C-cell batteries, probably from the 1960s:
SONY DSC

Early electric generators were usually small and ran only part of the day for equipment use. Pelton wheels were popular for locations with reliable streams, as mentioned in my post on water & hydropower. Generators or dynamos could be added to existing water wheels, or to existing steam or internal combustion power systems, or tacked onto small portable engines from tractors or other machinery. Several large-scale hydroelectric projects were envisioned at different times in the past, but never built.

There are a number of old “Oil” engines (usually diesel or semi-diesel) around Funter Bay, and a few gasoline engines. Some of these started out supplying mechanical power, and were later converted to generators.  The smaller units had a tendency to disappear from their original locations, as they could be shoehorned into a fishing boat with some effort. As such, there are not as many left in-context, and while you can find them in use as lawn decor, or lying on the beach, or half-buried in the woods, it’s less clear where they originally came from.

Part of an engine that wandered around the beach in front of our house, occasionally being used as a convenient “big heavy thing” to anchor boats or logs to:
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Going in the other direction, diesel boat engines with alternators attached were popular as land-based generators when I was younger, and could be had cheaply from vessels upgrading their equipment. These required well-insulated sheds set away from the house to keep the noise down, but not so far as to incur line loss.

A generator from approximately the 1950s:
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I believe this is part of an International Harvester tractor, retrofitted onto a skid base with a rather massive alternator tacked onto it:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The 1940s-era generator shed at the cannery (with water tower in the background). This was previously the “oil house”. The generator supplied the superintendent’s and caretakers’ houses at the West end of the property, and later supplied some of the boardwalk lighting and lights in other buildings:
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Exterior insulators for electrical wires at the cannery. These were a mixture of ceramic and glass.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A utility pole at the cannery, with some smaller ceramic insulators. Most of these poles were simply untreated logs stuck in the ground, and many are now getting crowded out by trees.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A close-up of a ceramic insulator with rubber-coated wires:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Power generation is still a complicated process at Funter Bay, often with high fuel costs.  Many properties have begun moving towards alternative energy solutions and new technologies like LED lighting, solar, and wind power.


Funter Bay History: Murder & Mayhem

March 25, 2014

Alaska’s history is filled with shady characters, dastardly deeds, and unsolved mysteries. Almost every town, mining camp, or cannery has its tales of murder, larceny, or swindles of one sort or another. In past installments of Funter Bay History, I’ve mentioned some of the criminal activities which went on in the area, including bootlegging, fish piracy, and other shenanigans. This post covers some more serious crimes, as well as various lesser incidents and shady dealings. Some of these are snippets from newspaper articles which are long on sensationalism and short on fact, multiple sources have been consulted when possible. Unfortunately there is not always follow-up information or detail readily available, so the outcome of some of these cases is not clear.

——————————————————

A murder on August 18th of 1894 reportedly involved two local prospectors. Archie Shelp and George Cleveland were accused of illegally selling whiskey to Natives, resulting in a drunken killing (or perhaps two killings, sources differ). The defendants claimed they were in or near Funter Bay during the supposed events, not at Chilkoot (Haines) where the murder took place. An 1895 article described how “two Indians bit the dust” during a drinking bout with two Swedes, which may or may not refer to the same case. Gus Lundgren, who had been camping at Funter,  testified that the two had been there on August 16th-17th of 1894. The defense claimed that they could not have sailed to Chilkoot in less than three days (from my own sailing experience, I would say it could be done in one long day with favorable winds). The prosecutor pointed out that there was no evidence Shelp and Cleveland were prospecting “with pan and shovel” as they claimed, and instead were “prospecting for the aboriginal native” with keg and tin cup. The two were convicted of illicit alcohol sales, and appealed.

——————————————————

An underground fight between miners at Funter Bay was reported in the Alaska Mining Record on June 10, 1896. William Williamson (Brother of Sandy Williamson) was supposedly attacked by Billy George, aka “Indian Charley”, and had a piece bitten out of his lip. The young Williamson had no experience in drilling and refused to strike double-handed. George, who had a “record as a biter” was upset with this and attacked him. After a 20-minute fight which left hair plastered on the walls of the shaft, the attacker fled. Billy George then gathered up his family and possessions and left in a canoe. (Excerpt in Barry Roderick’s A Preliminary History of Admiralty Island).

——————————————————

A “bloody battle”, and the first killing of an on-duty law enforcement officer in Alaska occurred near Funter Bay in 1897. That January, a “notorious young desperado” named William Thomas “Slim” Birch had been locked in the city jail, convicted of “mayhem”. The charge stemmed from a bar brawl in which Birch had bitten off part of Henry Osborne’s nose and ear. Birch was said to possess a “temper that runs wild” when under the influence of alcohol, frequently landing him in trouble. Despite his temper, “Slim” was a popular fellow in Juneau. He and his brothers had made some money early in the gold rush, partly through mining and perhaps partly through smuggling. They owned the Douglas City Hotel and Cafe, which featured a lively saloon, and had the support of many local miners. The night before Slim was to be shipped South to prison, a group of masked men staged a jailbreak, locking the jailer in his own cell. The group then fled in a sloop to Admiralty Island.

Released a Prisoner

Within weeks an informant reported Birch and co hiding out in a cabin on Bear Creek, 3 miles from the Juneau side of Admiralty Island (About 1-1.5 miles from Funter Bay). A posse consisting of two deputy US Marshals, the jailer, a jail guard, and an “Indian Policeman” set out in pursuit. After a tugboat trip from Juneau, followed by a long and grueling hike through snow and ice, the party reached the cabin. Accounts vary as to what happened next. One story was that Slim snuck out of the cabin and ambushed the deputies from high ground. Others say the fugitives fired through the door as the lawmen knocked on it. Other accounts say the officers found Birch and his accomplices sleeping and fired first.

“He is a desperate man and the deputies knew it, so they began shooting into the cabin, taking great chances on getting their man alive. Birch opened his cabin door and began to shoot with two revolvers” (from San Francisco Call)

While the truth of who fired first was not clear, all accounts show that the posse had the worst of the ensuing shootout. Jail Guard Bayes was hit and ran back towards the beach despite bleeding profusely from both legs. Deputy Marshal William C. Watts attempted to take cover behind a fallen tree but found the rotten wood a poor shield.  Deputy Hale exchanged shots with Slim Birch, then came under fire from the cabin. Struck in the chest as he tried to reach Watts, Hale staggered and fell into a small stream. He managed to pull himself out and make it out of range.  Jailer Lindquist hid behind a tree as it was riddled with bullets, and was hit in the eye by flying bark. The Native policeman, Sam Johnson, was the only one of the posse to remain uninjured. Johnson reportedly saw Birch and three or four other men inside the cabin, firing from “loopholes” between the logs. Watts was reportedly hit several more times during the gunfight. The other lawmen retreated, leaving the injured Watts behind. Hale’s wounds were said to be serious, but he eventually recovered.

After fleeing back to Juneau, the officers gathered a new posse of 20 men, along with a detachment of US Marines. A search party from “the neighboring cannery settlement” also hiked in to the cabin (The Funter cannery did not yet exist, but several others were in the area). Watt’s body was found “frozen stiff in the snow, where his cowardly companions had left him”. Several days searching resulted in nothing but frostbite for the posse members, and additional men came in from Sitka to join the manhunt. An investigation of the cabin found the floor “liberally scattered” with 38-90 and 45-70 rifle shells, and several firing loopholes cut into the logs to fortify the position. Also revealed were 50lbs of hidden gunpowder, thought to be part of a bank robbery scheme. Hiram Schell, one of Birch’s accomplices, had previously been in jail for gold robbery, the tale of which is a ridiculous adventure of its own and also involves a stop at Funter Bay.

The search ended when two cannery employees named Cheney and Olson discovered the heavily-armed Birch and Schell sleeping in dense underbrush. They reportedly had pistols in hand, requiring a stealthy approach to avoid waking them. The two cannery men crept up to a ledge above the fugitives, then leapt down and were able to manacle them after a brief struggle. The captors received a $500 reward for their efforts. The slain Deputy Watts had been a popular and well-known officer in Alaska, and tempers were high on all sides. The prisoners were taken to the Sitka jail for their own safety, as there was fear of encountering a lynch mob in Juneau.

At their trial for murder, Birch and Schell claimed self defense, and the contradictory statements from the lawmen confused jurors. Birch’s brothers and local miners  raised enough money to bring in “prominent” defense attorneys from Seattle. The defendants claimed that the deputies had not announced themselves before shooting, and they were thus responding to an unprovoked attack from unknown assailants. There was debate over the cause of Watt’s death, be it from his wounds, freezing, or both. Birch even claimed that he had been kidnapped from the jail and had not meant to escape in the first place! Eventually the pair were found not guilty of murdering Deputy Marshal Watts, an “outrageous” verdict which horrified the governor of Alaska. None of the other offenders were ever found, although a belt marked “W.H. Phillips” was recovered from the cabin.

Slim did end up serving 3 years at San Quentin for the original mayhem charge. He moved to Prescott, Arizona in 1902 and opened a saloon with his brothers Sidney “Kid” and Robert “Bob” Birch. Slim continued to get into bar brawls, including a 1908 affair in which all three brothers broke up a card shark scheme with flying fists. They also ran afoul of the law with gambling fines and prohibition violations. “Slim” died in 1952.

birch2Selected Sources:

-“Bloody Battle in Alaska; Between Desperadoes and a Marshal’s Posse” The Record-Union (Sacramento), 4 Feb 1897.

-“Capture of Slim Birch” San Francisco Call, 4 February 1897

-Fletcher, Amy. “Whitman shines light on a dark chapter of Alaska history”. Juneau Empire, 27 Oct 2013. (link)

-Hunt, William. “Distant Justice: Policing the Alaskan Frontier”. OK: U of OK Press, 1987.

-Roderick, Barry. “A Preliminary History of Admiralty Island” Douglas, AK, 1982.

-“To Plead for an Alaska Outlaw” San Francisco Call, 28 Feb 1897

-Wilbanks, William. “Forgotten Heroes: Police Officers Killed in Alaska, 1850-1997”. Turner Publishing Co, 1999. (link)

——————————————————

An article in the Juneau Record-Miner from July 11, 1907 had the headline “LOOKS LIKE MURDER”. A man named Herman Smith had disappeared under suspicious circumstances, with “strong indications that foul murder has been done somewhere between Douglas and Funter Bay”. Smith’s boat the “O.K.” ran out of gas at Cordwood Creek on the way to pick up fish, so he borrowed a small boat from Harry Scott at a Funter Bay fishing station. After getting fuel he left Douglas to return to the O.K., but then vanished. The article stated that “An Indian woman claims to have seen him murdered in the vicinity of Cordwood creek”. Reportedly missing were $130 cash and a month’s worth of provisions.

——————————————————

A fugitive from Sitka by the name of Ah-kee was pursued and overtaken at Funter Bay in July of 1909, and brought to court by Deputy Marshal Shoup (Shoup is also mentioned in a previous post).

——————————————————

In November of 1912, a miner named Martin Damourette was arrested and charged with larceny, accused by his mining partner L.C. Wilson. The two had stored equipment at their Funter Bay claim, and Damourette supposedly stole it while Wilson was absent. The court dismissed the criminal case almost immediately. Wilson filed a civil suit, but Damourette “ducked out of town” for Seattle the same night.

——————————————————

Another disappearance occurred at or near Funter Bay in 1915. Robert McGregor was reported missing by crew of the Santa Rita the morning after arriving at Funter Bay. He was a carpenter from Gypsum who had worked at various mines and camps around Alaska. Cannery officials supposed that he wandered off in the dark and became lost, but a search of the area found nothing.

——————————————————

Illicit booze continued to be an issue in the area, especially since it could sometimes be mail-ordered!
mail order beer

——————————————————

In October of 1917, two men named Thorensen and Okerberg were indited for furnishing liquor to Natives at Funter Bay.

——————————————————

In 1922 the body of Oscar “Terrible Swede” Lindberg was found burned to death on the beach at Bear Creek, across the island from Funter Bay. The case is filed under “Murders” in the Bayers notes.

——————————————————